I suppose all the Osco drugstores in the U.S.* have been stocked with Christmas goodies for more than a month now, but to see holiday wares in Hong Kong still seems surreal. It’s getting into the 50s at night, and there’s a bit of a breeze every day, but it sure doesn’t feel like winter, let alone fall. Sunday night as I was leaving the office I had to stop and snap a couple shots of Christmas decorations workers just installed in the lobby. The lights on the pillars have been off since these were taken on Sunday. Not sure why.
* I don’t know that there are any Osco drugstores left in the U.S. But when I think of a drugstore, I think Osco. Well, Jewel-Osco. That dates me. haha
The other day while walking to work in broad daylight via the Sun Hung Kai Centre and China Resources Building, I found myself contemplating my self-defense skills. I wasn’t feeling particularly threatened. The man walking in front of me started holding his hand out to passers-by as if asking for spare change. I don’t think he said anything to them. My first thought was, “that’s a silly way to bum a dollar. Who carries a coin in his hand while walking just in case an oncoming pedestrian has his hand out?” That brought me to the conclusion that this guy must be at least slightly off. And I was carrying a cake.
Meanwhile, I am jamming to Motorpsycho. Jamming.
Then the guy stops, steps to the side of the walkway and turns so he’s facing perpendicular to the lines of people passing by. I pass. I think I hear him make a strange noise but dismiss it as just some old slightly off dude making a strange noise. “That’s Hong Kong,” I say to myself. I say that almost daily. But there’s something to this encounter that brings me to thoughts of self-defense. It was the strange noise, sort of a moan or audible gawk. It was the slightly eery feeling of his eyes following me. It was not knowing whether he stepped back into the flow of pedestrian traffic to follow behind me after I passed. He didn’t put his hand out toward me, and I pretended not to notice.
“What would I do?” I asked myself. First, I’d drop this cake. Wait, I wonder if I could throw the cake up, spin around, and sweep the feet fast enough to spin around and catch the cake as it drops back down. I’d have to toss it up pretty high. And it’s a heavy cake! Anna baked it for MinJung’s party. A delicious cake. I don’t want it to fall to the ground, likely busting the cake transporter and ruining a delicious cake. And there’s the issue of my bag. I love this bag. My sister gave it to me. I’m also carrying two bottles of citron tea that MinJung left at my place. So the bag has some weight to it, too. Then I start thinking about my footwork. By this time, the old slightly off guy has probably asked 20 more people for money and forgot I ever passed, but I’m still thinking about the best way to take him out.
He’d probably tap my shoulder or grab my right arm with his right hand. He asked for money with his left, but that was only because people were passing on that side. Odds are, his right hand is dominant. So if he’s grabbing my right arm, I would spin clockwise, stepping back with my right foot, hopefully creating a little space between us with a push from my right hand. So, I switch the cake to the left hand. Hell, I gotta drop the thing. If I throw it in the air, it’s sure to drop on my head. Dropping from a lower height reduces the risk of a broken carrying case. Yes. After turning around, right foot first, pushing him backward a bit with my elbow or my hand depending on how far away he is. That’s when I sweep the feet. Scrawny guy, he might fall from this. Worst case, he’s a kung fu master and we fight to the death. Best case, it takes him down to one knee and he puts his hands up as if to say, “holy shit, lady. I surrender. Hey, can I have some cake?”
On an entirely different subject, I met the cutest kid last week. My pal Dan Reimold was visiting from Singapore where he acts as local hot shot. We hopped the Star Ferry to Kowloon side and wandered into the HK Cultural Centre while waiting for our junk boat cruise. Here’s Ken:
I love this child. And he loves me. I can still hear his adorable voice, smiling, “Good-bye, Emily…”
New friends Ken and Em pose with Ken's art displayed in the Hong Kong Cultural Centre.
I’m not sure if it was before or after the Ken encounter that Dan and I crashed “someone else’s wedding.”
Dan and Em pose with a wedding party outside the Hong Kong Cultural Centre one lovely November afternoon.
And while I’m at it, I might as well show you where I learned my kung fu.
- Bruce Lee and Em ready for battle at The Peak. Watch out!
Picture this: I’m in Hong Kong. It’s about 70 degrees. Sort of sunny. Comfortable. A slight breeze from time to time.
Got that? Nearly perfect, right?
Would you believe that at the same time, Hong Kong’s Central Library is packed? Packed, I say. Young and old gathering and devouring information of all sorts. The most extensive nondigital periodical selection I’ve seen in one place. That is, real newspapers and magazines not on the Internet. English-language books including novels, neuroscience and Classical Civilization. (I was tempted to list Norway as the third item in that series, as it’s always fun to alliterate. Alas, I give a shout out to a couple of my history-buff brothers. Unlike Derek Zoolander, I’m talking about my real brothers.) The library was an adventure in escalation. A real gem. There’s a kids’ zone, cafe and book stacks accessible by elevator just like old IU. I can’t wait to return tomorrow with my proof of residence to claim my very own library card.
Victoria Park, with Central Library in the background:
After the magical library tour a la Carlos y Nora, we walked through Victoria Park. Located in Causeway Bay, it’s one of Hong Kong’s oldest parks, Nora said. Or perhaps she said it’s Hong Kong Island’s biggest park. Either way, it’s great. Fields for playing football (that’s soccer), tennis courts, swimming pools, a roller derby rink (yes, roller derby), swings, fountains, lawn bowling, lawn big enough for kickball (duly noted, Carlos?), remote-control-boat pool, chill outdoor terrace bar, jogging track, y mas awesomeness. I shall return early and often. Best part? It’s 5 minutes’ walk from my building in Wan Chai.
Stay tuned for updates on my soon-to-be-started kickball league. Or maybe ultimate Frisbee.
Look! I’m transitioning into a different topic.
Last night, I’ll have you know, I threw my first Hong Kong party. In honor of MinJung’s surviving her first year in Hong Kong, we celebrated in truly international style. The guest list represented four continents. If you count wine as a guest, and I sometimes do, that takes our continent count to five. Hello, Africa. But wait, there’s more: Homemade chocolate cake. I was happy to give Anna a reason to bake, let me tell you. She said she used a whole can of cocoa. I applaud her effort and hereby issue a standing invitation to all future parties for anyone who bakes. Or brings Belgian beer. Or bread. I have such swell friends. And I’m easy to please. All this and we didn’t even hit Club Morrison, the 3rd floor hangout spot in my building.
Next time.
Referring to the post “The Day I missed America,” my friend Mike asked if I’d share impressions of the U.S. election in Asia. Well, this picture should shed a little light:
U.S. presidential election makes all the major English- and Chinese-language dailies. Big news.
Election Day. It’s a special day. I think this year many people will agree it became extra special for the first time in a long time. I’m not going to get into the politics of it all*, but I will say I got a little choked up during Barack Obama’s acceptance speech. Much like my experience listening to Nick Clooney once, I felt like I could stand there listening for hours and be happy. I got choked up because of how united the moment seemed. Halfway around the world, I felt like I was there experiencing the moment with the rest of America. I also realized how different it is to be living outside the U.S. at times like these. I didn’t feel left out. I felt like I was part of something bigger, stronger, global. America’s presence stretches much farther than I ever realized while I lived in the States. It reminded me of the way my brother Andrew described his new feelings when he heard the Pledge of Allegiance recited at the end of U.S. Navy bootcamp. He said it would never be the same. I feel ya, bro. I felt stronger, I felt prouder. Today I learned more about myself as an American in a room with other Americans: toddlers, 10-year-olds**, teens, college students, suits, and the League of Women Voters***.
I missed being in America today. Seeing the crowds on TV and reading about the gatherings back in Bloomington made me miss it. But I had my own crowd here. It didn’t matter that they weren’t being heard by the throngs in Chicago, the world citizens gathered around me cheered just the same. Until today I’ve not understood why people clap, cheer or jeer at a basketball game on TV. Now I get it. It’s about feeling like you, too, are part of something bigger. Something you’re passionate about and proud to be a part of. That’s America. And, hey, that’s the world.****
* My professional code of ethics requires my neutrality on all things political. This post was meant to be more patriotic than anything. Any political leanings you may interpret are accidental. Thanks for reading.
** The mock election at the event allowed everyone to vote — kids, noncitizens, etc. Would’ve made a great photo. Oh, and aren’t serial commas great?
*** This is a nice way of saying … well… old ladies. Older ladies? I don’t know the P.C. … ah, you get the idea. Young and old. In harmony.
**** I think my blog post went deeper than deep. Eh, take it with a grain of salt. It’s past 3 a.m. If I don’t do this post now, I never will.
As always, click on the photo or the word awesomeness to view more photos from my Election Day.
Senso-ji Shrine, Asakusa, Tokyo
Danise and I spent five-ish days in Tokyo, thanks to the generosity of one Mr. Scott England, who loaned us his bed and keys and TimeOut guide.
I’ll finish this post later. I want to go play soccer now.
……………………..time passes……………………………………
My first Hong Kong soccer experience was even better than I thought it would be. Big thanks to my pal Marvin for the invite, and to his pals for accepting me onto their pitch so genuinely. Unlike most co-ed soccer experiences of mine in the U.S., here the guys actually pass me the ball on purpose. They celebrated my two goals. And they didn’t really care that I sucked in goal. It was their first time playing with a girl, and I think they were pleasantly surprised. About half of them went to high school together. Now in their mid- to late 20s, they try to get together at least once a month at the pitch in Kwun Tong where they grew up. Most of them still live nearby.
There was Steven, whose favorite English word is “POWER!” He ended up shirtless and flexing at every dead ball. Usually near me.
And Stanley, who has an advanced degree of some sort in teaching English. He works with primary school students and says a lot of the times he is more of a babysitter. Sounds similar to teaching in the U.S., no?
Derek, with a pronounced British accent, is an engineer for a U.K. company. He showed up a little late and I don’t think he took a single break.
And so on. My friend Marvin apologized to Stanley when we showed up for missing his wedding party. Then he went on to name several of the other guys who just got married or were getting married soon. One was handing out red invitations he brought. Surely his fiancee would think it less funny than I did that he’s handing these beautiful invitations from his gymbag to his pals with sweaty hands. Boys.
………………………back to Tokyo……………………………..
One of our first outings took us to Senso-ji Shrine, home of this little
statue that is supposed to heal. You touch the statue where you’re sick and, well… hope for the best. The little blurry boy in the picture climbed the statue after slapping it a few times on the legs. Sort of hilarious.
Danise, my traveling partner, and I were treated to great seats at Tokyo’s Cirque du Soleil show, ZED. It was my first Cirque, and I was entertained by the show as well as the sideshow - about 20 people were moved to new seats for the second act after being doused in hydraulic fluid. That’s what they get for sitting under a winch.
We didn’t get around to kareoke, which seems to be a sin. Whatev. We hit the Hot Gate Bar, after Johnny from Guinea showed us the best curry noodle joint in town and we promised to stop by his bar for a drink. As Danise said, it is a really cute bar. Just needs patrons. A common problem in Tokyo after the subway closes.
Back in Hong Kong, I need to figure out what time to go to work today. It seems most of the rest of the world is falling back today. I am not. I think that makes my nights later. As Michael Scott would say: TDB.
